Maybe you remember this little lady?
Go go gadget xray blouse. This was back in December before I had added the buttons and buttonholes.
This project was a lot of firsts for me. First time sewing with light as a feather crepe de chine. First time making a blouse. First time using silk organza. The first time is always special. And I didn't even wait till my wedding day.
I have lusted after Equipment blouses for years. They are so classic and chic and can look polished or casual with ease. In desperate need of work separates, I thought this McCall’s pattern was a mighty fine substitute, but Jen at Grainline has released the Archer blouse and I think it’s probably a better choice, especially given the drafting woes I encountered with the McCall’s (the Archer also has an option for a cute ruffle in the back).
I think most of the painful memories associated with how much I slaved over this fickle beast have faded somewhat but I still have a general sense of pride mixed with despair whenever I wear it. Hours and hours and hours of fiddly hand sewing and silk pin pinning and OCD hand washing (sweaty paws and silk ≠ mix)…. Don’t even get me started on trying to sew those pockets on evenly (where was Sallie and her glue stick tip then I tell you!?)
We all know that silk is a bitch to cut. Even with my pattern weights and rotary cutter I had issues with the smaller parts, namely the collar facing. I didn’t dare zoom in and show you but shit is a little wonky there. Trying to stretch fabric where fabric does not want to be stretched. That in and of itself would not have been the end of the world, but then I got to the sleeves.
W
T
F
What SHOULD have been a pretty simple set-in sleeve was a catastrophe. Somehow the sleeve I cut was SUBSTANTIALLY larger than the opening. I double checked all my pattern pieces and I have to chalk it up to a drafting error on McCall’s part. Hey guys? Maybe do a little test jobby before you send these guys to be printed. Because my sleek, minimalist Equipment wannabe blouse now has a gathered sleeve. Shudder.
I also found the collar a little dinky, but other than that, I am really happy with the shape of this blouse. It’s the perfect length to wear with leggings and looks great tucked into pencil skirts. (I didn’t bother sewing buttons at the cuffs because I’m a roll-em-up kind of lady. Sshh, don’t squeal). The kind of basic I should and will have in a half dozen fabrics. But next time I’m going Archer. Thinking about the McCall’s sleeve snafu is giving me anxiety.
And now, some hipster styling. When did girls start wearing their shirts buttoned all the way up and why do I kind of like it? See what I mean about the dinky collar? I like a slightly more pronounced point.
P.S. Peep those pumps! Apparently I have the kind of housewarming parties where people get so drunk they forget their Christian Laboutins (I was not aware I had the kind of friends who OWNED Laboutins, but that is another issue entirely). Too bad they’re a size too big. I guess I’ll have to give them back.
P.P.S. I apologize for the photo blurriness. I'm using a loaner camera with fancy lenses and I'm still getting the hang of it.




Nice! I was looking forward to seeing your final product, and I think it looks great despite the pattern issues. I'm sure the silk is luxurious to wear, and the pockets look perfect! Are your pants handmade, too? I've been looking for some like them, and tried my hand at making some but don't have the energy.
ReplyDeleteThis is amazing! I remember seeing this x-ray beauty before xmas and lusting HARD. And seriously well done for sticking at the crepe de chine fiddliness - I just made a floor length dress out of crepe de chine and nearly lost my mind (and I didn't even get to keep it :( so unfair!). The Archer looks amazing - I've already bought and printed it, just waiting for a moment to make it...
ReplyDeleteI don't care what sewing woes you encountered making this, but you need to wear it a lot...you look so hot/sexy/amazing in it! I especially love the relaxed undone-collar look the best, you totally rock it!!!
ReplyDeleteWow, I love this! I've made this pattern before but in the wrong fabrics. I'm inspired to try again! Maybe it's my football shoulders, but the sleeve cap didn't end up poofy on me.
ReplyDeleteI just cut out my Archer today...in crepe de chine. I was going to make this McCalls, but then the archer one came out. I shan't bother now. Thanks for the glue tip. AND I think your blouse looks super fantastic!
ReplyDeleteIt is GORGEOUS! I cannot believe you used silk de chine. I'm currently seriously fucking up a Tiny Pocket Tank out of that stuff. So sad. I am super excited about Archer though.
ReplyDeleteLove your styling and your Laboutins.
Oh fuck no! Silk disasters are the biggest heartbreakers. You're like, I'm sorry tiny worms that exist solely to excrete the substance called sllk out of your head, of which I am now ruining beyond repair. YOUR LIVES WERE IN VAIN. And then you cry all over it, and we all know what water does on silk.... Sigh.
ReplyDeleteGlue it to it! But make sure you use a fabric glue stick. Apparently the regular old school glue stick gunks up your needle.
ReplyDeleteI'm blaming the pattern but maybe I screwed it up somehow.
ReplyDeleteWHAT?! WHY DIDN'T YOU KEEP IT?!?!?!?!
ReplyDeleteUm... no on the pants. They were the first store bought thing I had bought in almost a year ONLY because someone gave me an H&M gift card and I needed work pants. Of course they fit really weird and are too big and need a belt but the leg is kinda perfect so I wear them anyway. I really need to work on a pants block though. It's getting silly.
ReplyDeleteSteal the pumps; I won't tell a soul!
ReplyDeleteOMGAWD you are so hot! Love the whole styling but especially the shirt. So practical yet cute.
ReplyDeleteI was working with really malleable fabric (super low-quality voile) so I wouldn't have even noticed issues with the pattern! I say blame the pattern!
ReplyDeleteI was totally zooming in on the Louboutins! A girl needs red soles at least one day of the year. I started drafting my very own Equipment shirt and then I saw the Archer. But this is lovely and the kind of shirt I'd wear to pieces and not worry about fiddly parts. (P.S. For cutting small pieces like collars, blockfusing is genius. Unless of course you don't want interfacing in your collar but I think it makes it easier to sew too!)
ReplyDeleteHum, I hear you about the trickiness of that fabric and it's helpful to know how you made out with that pattern. From the pictures, at least, you're looking fab!
ReplyDeleteOh, I love this! I'm sorry it was a bitch but it's adorable, and I think you look amazing in it. Screw collars. Collars are the worst.
ReplyDeleteThanks for the warning about that devious McCall's pattern! I've been lusting after similar shirts for ages, but I'm too scared to make one because of well, all the problems you described. Major props to you, though, for persevering and making it work! I wouldn't have noticed the gathered sleeves if you didn't point it out; I was too busy drooling on my keyboard.
ReplyDeletethat's one perfect blouse, so all the hard work paid off.. i love buttoned all the way up shirts as well.. and i also plan on making a similar blouse for myself (well, similar in shape, mine is going to be orange with black geese printed all over)
ReplyDeleteLooks great! When you cut did you place a layer of paper under the pattern pieces? That's the classic method for cutting out slippery fabrics (silk chiffon, charmeuse, crepe de chine)...in couture I believe they actually make a sandwich of paper with the fashion fabric in thr middle.
ReplyDeleteThank you Phyllis! I will keep this in mind next time. I've always been nervous about the paper trick because I'm worried it would dull my rotary blade...
ReplyDeleteHAHA, OF COURSE IT IS. You are my colour guru.
ReplyDeleteYay!! I'm so excited to be seeing this on a real live human being! The blouse looks incredible on you! You're so crazy - it's like freaking perfection! Total Equipment Knock-off Goodness. Especially since it was your first time working on a lot of this stuff. Can I just say that choosing to sew a collared shirt (for the first time) - neck bands ain't no easy feat even in cotton - with a thin silk (also a first time) is absolutely cray cray!! Haha!! I love it! That's the way I learn everything! It's like throwing yourself into the lions den, and yeah, you get a bit bloody and maybe lose an eye, but goddamn it! Nothing feels better than staggering out of that den, covered in lion guts and knowing that YOU KILLED THAT BITCH! End metaphor. Rock on.
ReplyDeleteAnd P.S. My shirt is currently hanging off the back of my sewing chair in three pieces - body and 2 sleeves. I have yet to set in those sleeves, but I'll let you know how it goes!
D'oh, blockfusing! I wish I'd thought of that when I was cutting a zillion annoying silk pieces out a few weeks ago. :( Great idea!
ReplyDeleteGirrrrrrrl! This looks great! I LOVE it!!! Great styling, too! But let me just say this-- if I had a pair of Louboutins, I would NEVER wear them to go get my drank on for fear of losing them (especially since I tend to lose anything that's not stapled to me in those situations)!
ReplyDeleteDude.... I know.... I almost didn't let go when it came to hand over time. It's a new pattern as seeing as we design with specific girls as our inspiration, the specific girl gets to keep the samples. It's all good, we shot the new patterns last week, they looked amazing and I'm just obviously going to make more! (and I'll make my ones even better mwahahahaaaa!!!)
ReplyDeleteNEW FAVOURITE METAPHOR. Covered in lion guts, yep, that's me.
ReplyDeleteGorgeous, am very impressed at your skills with luxury fabrics, I am yet to sew with somethingso lush. Also love your styling in the photos x
ReplyDeleteActually it does do that lol, but a sacrifice of one blade is worth it to keep a fiddly chiffon fabric from sliding around and on grain. I use old blades to cut out patterns.
ReplyDeleteGreat make and she's silk!! a slippery little sucker but by the looks of it you nailed it. That thing with the sleeves? that's happened to me too, it could of been the silk moving about who know's I'd blame the pattern too- either way, you've made yourself one classic piece of awesome.
ReplyDeleteHope you're settling into your new place with no issues. Looking forward to seeing what comes off your machine.
its crazy amazing. i love how this turned out. you would never know that you struggled with the pattern because it looks like perfection. i hope you are planning to make more.
ReplyDeleteSo chic and effortless looking... I would be so jealous of you if I met you down the street!
ReplyDeleteFab fab fab... Man I love a white drape shirt. You've nailed it.
ReplyDeleteThink you need to keep the shoes too... Love the whole look. And the blouse looks so professional despite your challenges!
ReplyDelete